Today I traveled to Baikonur Cosmodrome in Kazakhstan, where I hope to watch the launch of the Radioastron spacecraft. A van picked me up in front of my hotel at 5 am, and dropped me with a group of astronomers outside the Akademishskaya Hotel. It was good to be back with a group of colleagues, nearly all familiar and most of them friends. A charter bus took us from there to Domodedovo Airport. We hit a snag at immigration: our visas allowed us to leave, but not return to Russia. Of course, officials had assured the scientists organizing the trip that we need not technically leave Russia, so that our single-entry visas would remain valid, but the officer at the immigration gate and his boss insisted on giving our visas the exit stamp. Many jokes about staying in Kazakhstan permanently followed. The institute in Moscow is working to correct the situation.
A TU-154 took us to the airstrip for Baikonur, a 3-hour flight. We sat in the first class section; seats were basic, but we were served an excellent meal with smoked salmon and sturgeon, cold cuts, candy, and baked salmon. The view was cloudy at first, but the overcast broke over Kazakhstan and we saw an enormous desert, broken with dry lakes and occasional creeks or rivers marked by bright green. A postdoc from Moscow said his father had been stationed at Baikonur while in the military, and that the river were full of large fish similar to carp. After an easy landing at the small airstrip, we disembarked into an oven. The temperature was said to be 41C, and it felt like 110F with absolutely no humidity. Kazakh customs and immigration was perfunctory, aside from a fair bit of paper shuffling and transfers of scientists and cargo. Quite a few of the officials looked very Asian, similar to Han Chinese. Indeed, we are not far from China here.
Our Russian colleagues went off to fill out even more forms, while the 8 foreign nationals went to the "Sputnik" hotel. We'd heard that the cost would be $567 per night, but after much haggling the manager agreed to a discounted rate of 280 Euros per night -- in cash and without internet access. The hotel was originally built to hold officials working on the Apollo-Soyuz linkup. It resembles a Best Western with nicer furnishings lovely woodwork, and old-fashioned toilet and shower.
Our group tried to obtain the needed cash at the Bank of Kazakhstan -- where they were unable to help us. Fortunately, I have plenty of cash, although I will have to get more in Moscow. Most interesting was the bank building, traditional construction with very thick walls and heavy doors. There was no air conditioning, but none was needed. We then enjoyed $1 beers at the cafe in the "Arbat" section of Baikonur. The cafe had a menu page listing the cost of breaking glassware and furniture, suggesting that this is not uncommon. Several cats lived in the cafe, enjoying scraps of shishkabob.
This "Arbat" is named after a bohemian district of Moscow, is a pedestrian mall where the locals enjoy walking and watching in the evening. The majority are clearly Kazakhs. They seem very cheerful and friendly, although we were warned not to walk alone in town. Ethnic tensions have produced problems; problems in the large cities have received coverage in the West. Most of the housing is apartment blocks about 3 stories tall. Most are in poor shape outside, with crumbling masonry; but no grafitti or vandalism. The yards between are dusty, with a few trees and plants, but children play.
Some kindly contractors helped me out with the internet and I am now back in touch!